Christmas Shower Curtain and Bath Sets
January 21, 2012 | 
Author There are a huge range of good Christmas designs for shower curtains this year and a lot of these can be bought with matching accessories such as bath, hand and finger tip towels. You can also get matching shower hooks and items such as lotion pumps.
One such popular example of this is called ‘Truckin with Santa’ here the main image is of Santa in a red truck delivering Christmas trees. He is pictured waving and driving through the deep snow past a snow man. This is a very cheerful festive scene which is bound to brighten up your bathing time. Add to this the matching shower hooks, towels and lotion pump and you then have a unique festive bathing experience. The whole thing can be bought for less than $80. This of course would also make for an ideal present and show that you have thought very hard about coordinating everything.
Another nice set of items is one titled ‘Sammy Sleigh Bells’ here the design is based on a Snowman holding a sign post in one hand and hugging a rein deer with the other hand and arm. The snowman is wearing a coat hat and gloves. The sign points the way to the North Pole, Holly Hill, Sleigh rides and Jingle bells. In addition to the shower curtain there are matching shower hooks; bath, hand and finger towels; 2 types of lotion pumps; Christmas night light and even a Sammy Sleigh bells rug.
Similar shower sets can be found illustrating such scenes as Chilly days and frosty nights, Meet me under the Mistletoe and I love winter Christmas snowman. As you can see there is such a lot of variety that you won’t be struggling to find what you want. In terms of getting a present for somebody else this is a real ‘no brainer’ so long as the person you are buying for has a shower!
How to Fix a Leaking Showerhead Faucet
A leaky showerhead can be both annoying and costly. After a few hours, the constant dripping noise is as brutal on the eardrums as nails on a chalkboard. And, even though a singular drip is only a few milliliters of water, it doesn’t take long before that leaky showerhead wastes hundreds of gallons – adding an extra zero to the end of the water bill.
Most homeowners don’t realize that a leaking showerhead is pretty simple to fix. There’s no need to buy a new one or, worse yet, hire a plumber. You can finish the job yourself in just a few short minutes with nothing more than a screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, and a washer that you can buy for a nickel at any hardware store.
Now that you’ve decided to take on the job yourself, you need to understand the two most common things that go wrong with showerheads. Either they start leaking at the point where the pipe screws into the actual showerhead, or the holes in the showerhead become clogged, causing water backups and creating a leak.
First, you’ll need to unscrew the showerhead from the outlet pipe. To protect the showerhead from damage, wrap a towel around the point where the head screws onto the outlet piping. Take the pliers and remove the head from the outlet. You’ll see the washer. Pull it off and replace it with the new one. If you think you need a tighter seal, use plumbers tape across the threads before screwing the showerhead back in.
Also, if you have a rotating or swiveling showerhead, you might as well take an extra step while you have it taken apart. To increase the swivel range and flexibility, take some lubricant, preferably silicone, and lube up the interior swivel ball before you screw the head back in.
If the holes in the showerhead are clogged, take off the faceplate by removing the screws attaching it to the head. If you can’t remove the faceplate, that’s okay, just keep the entire unit unscrewed. The reason showerheads get clogged is the lime deposits that are formed and get stuck in the holes over time. To get rid of the lime deposits, take either the faceplate or the whole showerhead, and soak it in a bowl of white vinegar for at least eight hours. This will dissolve the deposits, and make them easy to remove by sticking a toothpick or small nail through the holes in the showerhead. After that, scrub the faceplate with a stiff plastic brush and screw the unit back into the wall.
Can You Turn a Steel Building Into a Residential Home?
One would look at a stainless steel building and not believe that it could be turned into a residential home. There are many components that stainless steel buildings lack that homes must have, so the work involved may be rather extensive. However, stainless steel buildings tend to be less expensive than the average home and may even still cost less if converted into a residential home.
But can it be done?
Yes it can. Believe it or not, a group of architects in 2006 actually turned steel shipping containers into homes. Because of this innovative accomplishment, they proved that such a feat is possible and have opened the doors to more steel structures being converted into residential homes. It first started with the military using steel storage containers as offices, showers, and bunkers.
It is true that these structures are lacking many of the components required for a home such as wood, but many of these buildings actually have teak floors and are insulated. The lack of components hasn’t hindered designers from turning steel buildings into residential designs since 1982. However, it isn’t something we see often, but the point is that it is actually being done. It is actually growing in popularity and there are architecture firms all over the world cashing in on the benefits. They call these “Quick Houses” and they can be two-stories at 2000 square feet with large glass windows and skylights. Such a structure is built by using 5 storage buildings, which provides the owner with 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. The price range can be anywhere between $76,000 and $160,000 depending on how much space the owner needs. This actually comes out to be around $100 or less per square foot.
The price is actually the same if not less than an actual home built from scratch. The steel building is an existing structure that can be built upon by adding insulation if needed, carpeting the floors, adding drywall to the walls and actually creating rooms out of multiple buildings being sealed together. Bathrooms can be installed as well as heating and cooling systems. The possibilities seem to be endless, so the imagination can go a long way when turning a steel building into a home.
However, it is the building codes that tend to get in the way. Although steel buildings are stronger than other construction means, there are hurdles that must be taken care of before building can begin. There are some communities that do allow steel building construction and then again there are communities that do not. That simply comes down to the fact that new things tend to be accepted slower than the old. The truth is, though, that the fact that steel buildings can be converted into residential homes will eventually catch on and the industry will be booming.
Just think, the next time a home is built next door, it could be a steel building being converted into a residential home. Doing so provides strength and security that other construction means cannot do. Sure, it is a rather odd idea, but think about how steel can stand up to the elements. Those investing in a steel building to be converted into a residential home are more likely to have their home standing after a natural disaster than those who do not have steel homes.
How To Winterize Your Boat
Winterizing your boat is the single most important maintenance duty that you will have to perform as a boat owner. If it is done correctly, very little work will be required to get the boat ready for the water in the spring. Proper winterization greatly extends the life of the boat and its engine by protecting its components from freezing, corrosion and lying idle for long periods.
The first step in the winterization process is to ensure that the boat’s fuel tank is full – leave just a little room for expansion – and add fuel stabilizer in accordance with the instructions on the product. If the fuel tank isn’t full you run the risk of condensation forming within the tank which can lead to corrosion and clogging.
Turn off fuel valves and seal through-hull exhaust ports with duct tape. Replace the water separator and the fuel filter.
Protecting Your Engine
Run the engine for a while to warm it up and change the oil while it’s warm. This allows many of the impurities in the oil to be drained away. Change the oil filters. If your engine uses coolant drain the current fluid from the engine block and manifolds and replace it with a propylene glycol based antifreeze.
When a boat is not being used, oil tends to settle at the bottom of the engine block, exposing the pistons and valves to air, humidity and other corrosive materials. To avoid this situation remove the spark plugs and spray “fogging oil” inside the carburetor and into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs without reconnecting the wires.
Replace the engine’s old gear oil with fresh oil. Dispose of any used oil at an authorized recycling center.
Outboards
Flush outboard engines with fresh water. Allow all water to drain from the engine and wash down the engine with soap and water. Disconnect the fuel hose and run the engine until it stops. It is important to ensure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor. Use fogging oil in the cylinders. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads, and lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a quality wax. Change the gear oil in the lower unit.
If your boat will be stored out of the water during the off season, disconnect the battery and store it at home. Boats left in the water should have the battery left in place on board and functioning so the bilge pump will continue to function if required. If you are removing the battery from the boat, ensure it is fully charged before stowing it away. Recharge every 30-60 days or keep on a trickle charger during the storage period and check the water level from time to time.
It is also sensible to remove any valuable marine electronics from the boat for the winter, and to store this equipment in a safe place to avoid theft and possible damage caused by temperature changes and humidity. The winterization process also offers an opportunity to inspect items like lines, flotation devices, flares, fire extinguishers, etc., for wear and tear and possible replacement.
Propeller
This is also a good time to check your boat’s propeller and hub. Bent or nicked propeller blades will diminish performance. The hub may also be have sustained extensive wear. If this type of damage is apparent, replace the propeller and make any necessary repairs during the winterizing process.
Clean, Clean, Clean
Clean the boat thoroughly inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in the spring. After the exterior of the boat has been cleaned, apply a quality polish to the exterior surfaces to create a protective barrier against dirt and dust. Clean the interior, including all timber, vinyl and carpet.
To help keep your boat free from mildew, you may wish to install a dehumidifier or use a moisture absorber. Turn any cushions up on edge so that air can circulate around them, or better yet, remove them from the boat.
Drain and clean the bilges. (If your boat will be stored out of the water remove all drain plugs and put them in a place where they’ll be easy to find when relaunching your boat in the spring.) Spray the bilges with moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze.
Empty The Head
Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use an approved cleaner for your type of system, and let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more fresh water and pumping it out again. Add antifreeze and pump the coolant through the hoses, holding tank, Y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Check your owner’s manual to be sure that an alcohol based antifreeze won’t damage your system.
Water Tanks
Drain the fresh water tank and any hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connecting them together. Pump non-toxic antifreeze through the system by turning on all the taps / shower until the antifreeze starts coming out. Add non-toxic antifreeze to the water heater.
Put it on Blocks
If you own a trailer boat, consider putting the boat and trailer up on blocks for winter to take the pressure off the tires. Inspect the trailer and tires for wear and tear. Grease the wheel bearings and replace if necessary.
If at all possible, store your boat undercover. If you need to leave it outdoors you’ll require a boat cover. A good quality 8- to 10-ounce canvas boat cover should be adequate for most situation. Even undercover the boat should be covered to protect against dust and dirt, pests and bird droppings. For extreme conditions you could consider shrink-wrapping the boat. Do-it-yourself kits are available.
Get a FEMA Trailer at a Government Auction Really Cheap!
Did you know that after people live in a FEMA Trailer after a natural disaster that they have to give them back and then the government auctions them off? Some sell for as little as $1500 and therefore if you are looking for an inexpensive trailer this might be a very good bet for you? The prices actually range from as high as $8,000 down to as low as $850 but either way a deal is a deal.
FEMA stands for Federal Emergency Management Agency and there are many such auctions that happen from time to time. Sometimes they auction off brand new trailers, never used before at all. Often the dealers will bid on entire lots and take 10-20 at a time and sell for much higher prices later. Sometimes the people who live in them now can buy them outright or via the auction also. Others say thanks, but no thanks and are glad to have their homes rebuilt and want the things off the property, as they bring back horrific memories they say.
For the non-portable units however you must prove you have proper zoning to park the FEMA Trailer that you buy at auction and that you do not live in a flood zone or anything like that. Makes sense to me. Perhaps you might consider all this in 2006.
Prefabricated Showers Are Not What They Used To Be
The idea of a prefabricated shower may put a bad taste in your mouth. Think again with an open mind.
A visit to your local showroom may have you changing your mind. These are not just low end units anymore. You will find many of the features offered in custom showers available.
These prefabricated showers now feature a wide variety of the most desirable features.
Features available in prefabricated showers
1. multiple showerheads
2. steam
3. body jets
4. waterfall rainheads
5. handheld sprayers
6. remote control CD, stereo and TV systems
Advantages of prefabricated showers
1. offered in one piece and multi-piece units
2. flexible pricing
3. lightweight-floor may not need extra stabilizing of the underlayment as in the case of a tile shower.
4. lightweight-easier handling by a do-it-yourselfer
5. fast installation
6. ease of getting multi-piece unit on site
Prefabricated showers come in various sizes, and since they are offered as multi-piece units as well as one piece units, they might be the right solution for your bathroom remodel.
Prefabricated showers come in 32, 36, and 48 inch units. The multi-piece units are assembled on site. For a bathroom remodel this can allow you to have the size you want and still get it into your existing space.
If you are doing a bathroom remodel, before considering a one piece prefabricated shower, take lots of measurements, consider the route your unit will have to travel to get to it’s final position and be sure you can get it into the house, through doorways and halls, or whatever is encountered on it’s way to your new bathroom.
Do some convenient browsing online and investigate how prefabricated showers have improved and what features you would select.
Marine Refrigeration
How does Marine refrigeration work? The major parts of a DC refrigeration system include the refrigerant, a compressor, and a condenser, a cooling system for condenser, and a plate or plates inside the refrigeration box.
The compressor is part of a closed loop pumping refrigerant through the system and through the evaporator plate in the ice box. The compressor has two sides the High side or discharge side. The discharge side pumps refrigerant under pressure to the condenser. The suction side or low side and sucks refrigerant after it passes thru the evaporator plate back to the compressor. The cold plates in the fridge space have either expansion valves or capillary tube that separate the low and high pressure sides of the refrigeration system.
The refrigerant in the compressor starts as a gas. The compressor compresses the refrigerant gas, from low pressure to high pressure between 100-150 psi. When the pressure is increased like this its temperature is raised dramatically. This hot high pressure refrigerant is then fed to a condenser, where it is cooled and turned into a liquid. The condenser is cooled by either air or water. The refrigerant is now a cool high pressure liquid and is fed to an evaporator plate inside the boats refrigerator box.
The evaporator plate takes the refrigerant from the condenser and here it boils rapidly & evaporates back to a gas, at a very low temperature. This change of state absorbs vast amounts of sensible heat from the evaporator which in turn removes heat from the insulated refrigeration box, thereby lowering its temperature. The BTU is the measurement of heat removed. From the evaporator plate the refrigerant is returned to the low side of the compressor, to start the process again.
Evaporator or Holding Plates
Marine refrigeration systems use either an evaporator plate or a holding plate in the boats refrigeration space or freezer space. Each type of plate works differently in drawing heat from the boats refrigerator and ice box space.
Marine Evaporator
Marine Evaporators are just like the ones found in household refrigerators. They can get quite cold (thermostat setting) and many evaporators have the ability to make ice next to the evaporator plate or inside the evaporator box. Evaporators come in several shapes and sizes; they can be horizontal plate’s vertical plates and rolled plates. Evaporators are constant cycling, or short cycle. Most use a Danfoss marine compressor with H134 refrigerant.
Thermostat controlled evaporator temperature. Turn to lower ice box temperature. Evaporator plates are less expensive, but need Constant power supply.
Marine Holding plates
Marine Refrigerator Holding Plates act like large blocks of ice and the cold temperature of the holding plate sucks heat out of the boats refrigeration box. Holding plates can keep ice boxes cold for long periods.
The main advantage of a holding plate over an evaporator is that they only need to be recharged 1 or 2 times per day. This charging can coincide with attaching to shore power, running the engine and so the refrigerator does not rely on the battery bank. When incorporated into a properly designed system, holdover plates can significantly reduce average energy consumption. However DC holding plates are also possible. The holding plate is filled with a solution that has a freezing point below 23 degrees F. As the compressor runs, the refrigerant passes through the holding Plates coil, freezing the holding plate solution. The compressor turns of and as the holding plate thaws out, heat is removed from the box.
Powering the Compressor
The power supply to the compressor is one of the key elements of the boats refrigeration system. Refrigeration is one of the largest energy consumers onboard, so the power supply is an important element of the system. Power supplies to marine refrigeration systems include AC, DC, Shore Power, Engine power, and hybrid systems. Hybrids are combinations of say 12 volt and engine drive, or engine and shore power. The whole point in looking at power supply to your boats refrigerator is to couple it into onboard power requirements for all your boats marine systems. If you run a generator much of the time then adding on an AC refrigeration unit may make sense, but unless you do, you would be better at looking at 12 V, engine or shore power.
Power can be decided on how you use your boat. Are you tied up at a dock for much of the time and take days trips. Or do you cruise and spend large amounts of time at anchor. Finally are you Powerboating or Sailing will also influence power supply. Sailing means no charging of batteries or power from the engine. Here a solar panel or wind or towed generator can help replenish batteries. If you spend time at the dock, a DC system has plenty of time to recharge on shore power. If you spend time motoring and at the dock and engine drive with shore assist works well.
AC 110 volt marine refrigeration
These drop in refrigerators are like the one in your home and are commonly seen on larges boats with an abundance of AC power and space. The AC powers the marine compressor, and the condenser is typically air cooled. A reliable AC supply is needed in the form of a generator.
DC marine refrigeration with Evaporator plate
One of the cheapest marine refrigeration system and easiest to install is the 12 v or DC system. Air cooling is the simplest. The DC system combined with an evaporator plate that is thermostatically controlled gives flexibility over cooling requirements. Many 12 volt systems use the Danfoss compressor. With the increased efficiency of the Danfoss compressor, DC refrigeration onboard is getting more efficient, but is still power hungry.
For most boats with a small box, a single 12V compressor, air cooled condenser, with evaporator type plate will be about the cheapest option. The Adler Barbour Cold Machine has been around for around 25 years and provides great refrigeration for small to medium size ice boxes.
Shore powered marine refrigeration
Shore powered systems are made to maintain the boat’s ice box at set temperature when the boat is at the dock. They offer less power than direct from an engine drive but since you will be at the dock for a while that is not an issue.
If you use a holding plate and shore powered system you can keep the plate cool while away from the dock for 12 hours or so.
Engine powered marine refrigeration
The idea behind an engine driven compressor system is that the engine gets used anyway for at lest an hour or so. If you are Powerboating this makes sense, if you are sailing calculate how much time you use the engine.
If this is the case an engine drive with a holding plate can draw down the ice box in a short period and after that it can be left for 12 plus hours.
The compressor is run directly off the engine. Belt driven or direct compressor, There are two plates and you can add more, plus ad a separate freezer unit. This creates much power and fast cooling of the holding plate. More power than a 110 volt system. Larger systems and multiple plates are possible. Engine driven systems cost more and also involve a labor higher cost
Condenser Cooling
The marine refrigeration systems condenser needs cooling. This is how the refrigerant gets cooled and turned into a liquid. There are 3 ways to cool the condenser;
Air Cooled
Air cooling simplifies installation plus it does not rely on water or adding thru hulls. It is therefore the cheapest installation. For smaller units air cooling is OK, say 4 cu ft or under 6 cu ft you will get adequate performance. The air cooling unit needs a sufficient supply of re-circulated air for it to work. Ducting and space around the unit will help this.
When you cool by air flow you remove heat from the condenser and ad it to the ambient temperature. The temperature inside of the cabin only has enough capacity to disperse this heat.
Water cooled Condenser
Water cooled compressors will work better in higher ambient temperatures and are more efficient and can be 30% more efficient. Water cooling may be best and is better for larger installs especially if freezer is concerned. Water cooling needs a thru hull and a pump to get the water to the condenser. The most efficient way to cool the condenser
Keel cooler Condenser
The keel cooler or keel condenser requires no thru hull fitting and will not be subject to clogging. The keel cooler is a 3″ x 7″ bronze plate that mounts on the outside of the hull and it is the condenser heat exchanger. The bronze plates are connected direct to the compressor which is the only moving part in the system. The Keel Cooler is for a box up to a 15 cu ft refrigerator or 5 cu ft freezer. Since all the heat is passed into the water outside the boat it will does not heat up the interior. Since it works without a water pump there is never a pump or strainer to maintain and best of all it is nearly silent in operation.
Refrigeration Compressor & plate Combination
Before we pick a size of marine refrigerator we need to understand what factors are involved in keeping the refrigeration box cool. They are mainly box size, insulation and cooling water temperature, number of people aboard and the temperature you are setting the plates for.
Refrigerator Box Volume
This is obvious, the larger the box the more heat removal is necessary. A larger box will need more BTUs of heat removal. After this basic size issue we have things like, Front opening or top opening. Front opening lets cold air out quickly but does allow you to get to the bottom of the box. Drains, if you had a drain for you ice box plug it. You will not need to drain water out of the ice box and this will only let cold air out and heat in. Gaskets, these are a must and must be properly sealed. A trick to identify if there are gaps in the gasket is to put a piece of paper in between the lid or door and the cabinet and close it. Pull on the paper and you should feel some drag if the gaskets are sealing properly. It comes out easily there is a gap. Get new or better gasket material.
Insulation
Typical insulation to a fridge or freezer is foam insulation like Dow Blue board. The recommendation is for 3-4 inches for refrigeration and 4-6 inches for freezer for medium sized boxes. Foam has an R value of 5 per inch thickness, R being a thermal unit. This means in terms of thermal units 3-4 inches represents 15-20R value for the refrigeration unit, and 20-30 for the freezer.
There are manufacturers of vacuum panel thermal insulation. The Glacier bay Barrier Ultra-R super-insulation at R-50 per inch provides lots of insulation without taking up valuable volume. These panels are vacuum panels and are sealed to work. It is very important that you do not drill through or puncture these panels. These panels are custom made, so you would need to provide the manufacturer, exact sizes with locations for copper plate tubes to enter the box. These are built into the panels.
Water temperature
In the tropics water temperature is a lot warmer then northern climates. For every degree water temperature increases a corresponding 2 % increase in required BTU. If you are in the Atlantic portions of the east coast US, you have some cool sea water temps, but of you then cruise down to the Caribbean you may strain your refrigeration system.
Plate Thermostat
The evaporator plate temperature is set by the thermostat. Dial the box temperature down and the system will have to work harder.
Number of people aboard
More people means the box gets opened more and the heat build up from more people adds to the ambient temperature.
How big a Refrigeration System is required?
To calculate how big a refrigeration or marine freezing unit required, you will need to start with an estimation of the BTU requirements of the box. A simple rule of thumb for estimating the BTUs is based on the box volume.
These BTU estimations are based on these assumptions;
- Insulation has an R value of 30 no leaks.
- Water temperatures are tropical in the mid 80s F.
- 2 people aboard, for each extra person add an additional 1,000 daily BTU
- Top opening box, for a front opening door add 15 BTU/inch of door
BTU estimate on refrigeration volume;
Refrigerator daily heat load; 600 Btu per cu. ft.
Freezer daily heat load; 1200 Btu per cu. ft
Lets look at how this works for the 4 cu ft refrigeration system, using the above formula
4 cu. ft. times 600 = 2,400 Btu.
Two additional people on board = 2,000 Btu.
Total required per day = 4,400 Btu
Choosing 12 volt unit with Evaporator
Match this number to the compressor capabilities, and then calculate amps needed to power the system, and then work on the battery bank capability. Start by using the 4,400 BTU form the above example. The Adler Barbour Cold Machine uses the Danfoss BD50 Compressor is rated at 650BTU / hr based on 25F evaporator temp.
This is well above the 4,400/day we need for the 4 cu ft fridge, using only about 1/3 of the power. We could easily go down the Danfoss DB35.
Amps
To calculate how many amps the system will draw we start by converting BTUs to amps with this formula, using an assumption of 5 BTUs per watt hr of energy used. BTU/5/volts. so say we have 4400 BTUS and 12 volts, 4,400/5/12=74 amp hours/day.
Battery Bank
The Amps needed to power the compressor should be 1/4 of the capacity of the house bank. So for the above 74 amp hours needed multiply by 4 to get recommended house battery capacity = 296 amp hrs
Conclusion
These days being on the water means keeping food and drinks cold. 12 volt refrigeration units are becoming more popular with technological advances. Greater compressor efficiency and evaporator technology brings 12 volt cooling to the smallest of boats.
Sewer Odor Experts for Roof Top Sewer Vent Stack Filters
Every state, city, and village either has odor ordinances or treats obnoxious odors perceptible beyond property lines as public disturbances/nuisance. All plumbing vent stacks produce odors unless they fitted with a filter. OSHA warns that levels of 300-ppm (H2S) cause the olfactory nerve to lose sensitivity. At first a “rotten egg” odor is detected but on the second or third breath the odor is no longer noticed. All major odor problems have associated fines or other penalties.
When you are experiencing sewer or septic smells inside a home or business not near a plumbing fixture these odors are most likely coming from your sewer vent stacks on your roof. All plumbing vent stacks produce odors including that “rotten egg” smell caused by hydrogen sulfide gas unless they are fitted with a filter. One of the most common problems is the sewer gas (H2S) is drawn into the fresh air intakes on the roof from the air conditioning systems. On roofs industrial buildings code also require fresh air intake for building air balance against all the stale air exhausted through roof vents. The potential problem can be identified through basic smell of odor when on the roof or around the perimeter of the building as hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas is heavier than air and thus falls to “nose level” quickly when the wind blows just right. A professional can use a H2S measuring device to detect and measure sewer gas concentration being omitted from specific roof vent stacks. The vents omitting gas is a natural occurrence on most homes and buildings because that’s the way they are designed.
Raising roof vent stacks does not solve the problem it only displaces it on a windy day to blow over the exterior wall to open windows, the patio, the fireplace, the garden, pool area, sidewalk, front door, driveway, or parking lot. On a non-wind day sewer gas is heavier than air and will settle on roof and cause intermittent sewer odors in the home or building.
Installing a One way valve on the sewer stacks will reduce the sewer gas that vents to the roof through the opening and closing of the valve. The Mechanical Engineers design the sewer venting system for it to be a sealed system in the home or business but unrestricted venting to the atmosphere. This type of system defeats the original design intent for all building designs. The system operates on demand of actions in the home or business such as the flush of a toilet or turning on a sink. Since this type of system is capping the vent stacks, it is pressurizing the sewer system in the home or business. It is creating more of a potential for sewer gas odor problems. Any type of bad plumbing seals or gaskets that that may have a small leak will cause the problem to intensify. The vent is now mechanically opened and closed by a valve. It can fail in open position too. This introduces sewer gas to the roof, when it fails.
Charcoal vent stack filters on the sewer stacks is one odor filters on the market but is less effective when introduced to moisture which causes it to solidify or cake up. Sewer gas from the vent stacks is extremely high with moisture since the systems primary function is to drain water in a sealed system underground away from the building. In my opinion this product is not the right product for this application.
I recommend for homes odor eliminator vent stack filters that use Zeocarbon. Zeocarbon is a mixture of carbon and zeolite rock, which has been independently demonstrated to work up to 7 times longer than regular carbon alone. Vent stack filters using this technology are unique in that they actually regenerate themselves for up to 5 years. These systems use sunlight. The exterior, interior, and zeocarbon replaceable bags themselves are impregnated with titanium dioxide (approximately the same quantity and type in most popular toothpastes on the market). When exposed to direct sunlight the titanium dioxide produces ozone, which directly destroys odors and regenerates the zeocarbon. When combined with “no flow periods” common to most households, this design allow us to operate up to 5 years without refilling the units. Many units completely block any regenerative UV sunlight though the use of opaque rain caps and guards that promote the development of odor producing bacteria. However because the zeocarbon can only absorb so much gas, this type filter is designed with a low cost, easily replaceable insert bags. Another good thing on this type filter is the restriction on the airflow is so slight (it has a pressure differential measured at only 1.5″ w.g./ft@50 fpm) that it does not interfere with normal venting of the plumbing system. This type filter is made with animal resistant self-cleaning screens coupled with the frost proof insulating solar heat absorption design characteristics, protects the vent stack from plugging in all seasons.
The zeocarbon filter not only traps sewer gases at the roof vent, so they cannot escape into the air at all, but it also means less air pollution from GREENHOUSE GASES. It particularly traps ammonia, carbon dioxide (global warming) and hydrogen sulfide (the rotten-egg smelling gas), which the filter traps on an 18-24% wt/wt basis, and used zeocarbon acts as an excellent source of nitrogen when mixed with soil. Even though the filter is installed directly on the vent pipe, it’s frost proof design is such that it not only does not impede air being drawn into the vent, it prevent hoar frost plugging and keeps out insects and critters. This filter is also for vents that are directly connected to aerated or non aerated septic tanks, septic mounds, drain fields, landfill vents, compost vents, etc. In many instances, city-sewer connections bring gas into the home’s plumbing vents which vent the gases out the roof vent and often down into the back yard where they can be drawn into the home. This type filter has proven beneficial in those cases too!
I recommend for mobile homes, resturants, daycare centers, nursing homes, and schools, odor eliminator vent stack filters that filter the harmful sewer odors by oxidation. Oxidation is accomplished with chlorine dioxide technology. Because chlorine dioxide reacts selectively and primarily with only the most offensive odor producing compounds (hydrogen sulfide, organic sulfurs, organic amines) the Odor Eliminators will normally provide a much longer service life than products such as activated carbon. With a properly designed filter that allows the original design of the system plumbing system to function does not pressurize the lines like some of the other products on the market. Moisture does not have a negative effect on the Eliminator therefore unwanted reactions do not occur and power is not needlessly spent allowing chlorine dioxide to be available and ready on demand. The result is safe, extremely effective, broad-spectrum malodor control. Chlorine dioxide remains available and ready on demand.
Polishing is accomplished with technology that protects against the escape of malodors can not be oxidized. It incorporates polymeric adsorption and electrostatic bonding technologies. Polishing and oxidizing are accomplished simultaneously. The result is safe (utilizing the same material approved for food storage by the USDA), extremely effective, broad-spectrum malodor control. (Request Form No. 502 from USDA for more detailed information.)
After you have installed roof stack vent filters, inside odors are most likely coming from leaking wax seals or gaskets on your plumbing fixtures. In this case the odor is concentrated typically in an isolated area, the bathrooms. It can be intermittent due to several building mechanical system designs. Bathroom fixtures have a p-trap built-in the fixture so if the fixture becomes loose from the floor or the wall the wax seal or gasket can leak. This type of leak will allow sewer gas to leak directly into the room. Most bathrooms have an exhaust fan which intensifies the introduction of the gas into the room by pulling the gas from the source, the leaking seal at the floor moving it to the ceiling exhaust vent prior to exhausting the gas from the space. This condition is detected through smell or a professional can use a H2S measuring device to detect and measure sewer gas concentration. The remedy for this problem is to replace the bad fixture seals. Contact your preventive maintenance group or to arrange for a local technician help with this problem.
Bathroom odors can also be traced to urine absorption into the tile or tile grout.
Many businesses try to mask the odor by installing a deodorizer mister in the bathroom to spray a scented to product to mask the odors in bathrooms. With proper maintenance of fixtures in the bathrooms and the correct initial designed systems operating correctly this problem should be eliminated. If this condition is corrected overtime it can worsen and affect other parts of the business.
Odor and constant smell can be due to the build up of urine saturating tile grout around urinals and tile grout. There are spray products that eliminates this problem by using it in a regular maintenance program.
When you have floor sinks, drains and floor / wall clean outs dry of water especially in basements of homes and businesses in the production or mechanical areas you will often detect an offensive odor. A dried out p-trap allows the sewer system to vent freely into the space. In the case of a restaurant or any building with an exhaust system that may be in a negative air balance the problem is intensified. The exhaust system can draw the sewer gas into the facility. The affect on an isolated area is not uncommon or if it is near a return on the HVAC system circulate it through out the building. The most efficient way to identify if you have this problem is to do a smoke test on the sewer system. Prior to doing the smoke test we would first recommend verifying all floor sinks and drains have water in the p-traps. This would include the units in isolated rooms such as the mechanical areas and the units installed behind or under equipment. The wall clean outs can be visually inspected but are difficult to detect leakage without a H2S meter or a smoke test. The dried out p-trap when identified can be fixed by adding water to fill the p-trap. Contact your preventive maintenance group to help with this problem.
To fix floor drains and floor sinks add water to the traps on a regular basis or add a trap primer to the system.
To fix floor and wall clean outs check for bad seals in a random fashion. Replace where worn.
Bathroom Design – A Guide To Modern Bathroom Ideas
From sleek wall-hung bathroom furniture and spa baths to colour therapy lighting and sound systems, there’s more choice than ever before when designing a bathroom. For this reason, it’s a good idea to involve the professionals. If you’re planning a bathroom from scratch, or you are going to reconfigure the plumbing and drainage of the existing room, then it’s best to employ a designer as there will be structural and practical considerations, especially if you want a wet room. Specialist bathroom showrooms, such as Original Bathrooms, Ripples and CP Hart, provide designers and can organise installation too.
The DIY stores, such as B&Q and Wickes, can offer in-store planning, but advice is generally limited to the layout of basic elements, rather than providing solutions to problems. When buying for your bathroom, take along a plan of the room, with the existing fittings marked, and make sure you know the location and type of water-heating system you have, so that the shop can help you choose the most appropriate fittings.
Basins
The latest basins are wide, shallow designs, sometimes even irregular in shape. These can be inserted into a slab-type work surface, wall-mounted with shelves and towel storage below, or installed as part of a basin unit. Conversely, deeper, rounder shapes set into slab worktops are also popular. Teamed with dark wood or lacquered white cabinets, shiny chrome taps and matching accessories, they can add a witty touch to an otherwise understated bathroom.
Baths
Baths are usually the focal point of a bathroom, and there is a huge choice. Modern roll-top styles, often mounted in a cradle or on blocks, are designed to sit in the centre of a large room, while non-freestanding designs will need to be set into a surround finished with tiles or timber. New materials for baths include stone, cast-stone composites and even wood. For a larger bath, check that your hot-water system has the extra capacity needed. You should think carefully before opting for a shower instead of a bath, as it may decrease the re-sale value of your property.
Furniture
Modern fitted bathroom furniture is often in dark wood, such as ebony, mahogany or wenge, which contrast well with white sanitaryware and chrome or stainless-steel bathroom fittings.
Walls
Where walls and flooring are concerned, there’s still a strong trend for tiles, with limestone or porcelain lookalike tiles very popular. To avoid a bland look you can add bands of colour to break up plain tiles. Fully tiled walls tend to suffer from condensation unless the room is well heated. To solve the problem make sure your room has adequate ventilation; a heated towel rail and underfloor heating will also help. You can update your bathroom simply by swapping an outdated pedestal basin for a chic modern one with an integral stand.
Brassware
If your bath and basin are understated, then bold, angular brassware will create several focal points. Many ranges have satin and matt finishes, sometimes in nickel, which will provide a softer look. The trend is for taps to be arched and graceful and showerheads as large as possible, especially in a wet room, to give you a good drenching. Remember that hard water causes shiny brassware to mark and dull quite badly, and be prepared to dry and buff the taps regularly. Take advice when choosing brassware, too, as products vary in suitability for high- or low-pressure water heating systems.
Wet Rooms and Steam Cabinets
The most desirable types of showers around at the moment are wet rooms. If you wish to use the whole bathroom, then it has to be lined with a waterproof membrane, which usually costs at least £2,000. Do take professional advice, as there are many points to consider, from the capacity of the drainage system to the rate of water flow and recovery. You could opt for a semi-wet room, or a walk-in shower; this will be spacious but with fewer technical considerations. Semi-wet rooms still involve extensive waterproofing of part of the room, while glass panels are used to screen off the rest of the room and contain the spray. Walk-in shower enclosures consist of a tray and side/front panels, but are without a fully closing door – the walk-in area serves as a drying-off space. The latest have frameless glass panels and recessed trays to create a wet-room look.
If a wet room is not for you, and you have the budget and the space, you could create a spa-like bathroom with a steam cabinet. Fully enclosed with a roof, these contain a steam generator and usually a seat. Chromatherapy (colour therapy) is also included in some models. If the bathroom doesn’t have the space for a separate shower, look at the range of over-bath showers/steam cabinets from Jacuzzi – some models offer whirlpool bath options as well.
Ceiling-mounted shower fittings, along with body jets, are de rigueur in a wet room. If you want to install a new shower into an existing enclosure, or over the bath, consider a shower panel, such as one from Triton, which includes a fixed showerhead plus a hand-held spray and various body jets. Aqualisa offers remote-controlled showers, which can be switched on before entering the enclosure; the Grohe Wireless shower can be switched on or off from any room in the house.
Steam Shower
Showers are considered to be extremely essential features of modern human life and are the commonest devices used by individuals in order to cleanse their body as well as to ensure the prevention against any form of disease or infections. There are various kinds of showers that are used in households for regular usage and there are certain kinds of showers which are used popularly in spas and these are believed to have therapeutic effects on the body and aid in relaxation. Steam baths or sauna baths have been very prevalent practices since early times and steam showers are also quite a popular form of bathing.
Steam shower rooms where the means by which one could experience the effects of steam showers as this shower is usually practiced amidst enclosed spaces. In order to understand the reason behind this, it is necessary for one to have an idea regarding the usage mechanism of steam showers. Steam showers function with the help of steam generators which help in the production of water vapor by the process of humidification. Therefore, if steam showers are set up in bathrooms it is essential to make sure that it is placed in an enclosed area so that the water vapor thus produced does not get the opportunity to escape out in the open. In such cases, the effect of the steam shower will be reduced greatly. Moreover, in such cases, it is also possible that the wallpapers or paints adhering to bathroom wall may be damaged as a result of this excess steam production.
In most cases it is noticed that these steam showers are available in the form of stand-alone showers and here the shower units are located in three different regions, above the head, on the backside or behind the posterior part of the body. Most of the health spas and gymnasiums provide these features and contain separate steam shower enclosures. However, in recent times, it has been noticed that steam shower set ups have become common features in bathrooms as well and the reason behind this is that at present the various technological innovations have greatly lowered its installation and maintenance costs. Moreover, to ensure rapid sale and to increase popularity steam showers are often accompanied by various other features like telephones, CD players or MP3 players, radios and television systems and aromatherapy. Such features have immensely popularized the usage of this product.